Skip to main content

How to insulate your garage door for winter (Your heating bill will thank us)

Sometimes overlooked, garage doors also need to be prepped for winter

Unfocused shot of snow falling on driveway with garage in the background
Thomas Griesbeck / Unsplash

If you’ve ever stood by an old single-pane window on a cold day, you may have noticed that the cold passes right through it. That’s because glass is a poor insulator, allowing virtually free heat exchange. Similarly, your wood or metal garage door becomes like a wall of ice on freezing cold days, and that cold transfers into the rest of the house. Additionally, your home’s heat escapes through the uninsulated garage door. So, how do you insulate a garage door?

To make your garage more comfortable and save money on your energy bills, you can block out the cold. Follow along as we walk you through the process.

Recommended Videos

Choose the best garage door insulation

Wood garage door on brick building
Breadmaker / Shutterstock

Before heading over to the home improvement store to pick up supplies, consider which type of product is best for insulating your garage door. The best choice depends on your climate, garage location, and type of door. Insulating capability is measured in R-values — the higher the R-value, the more resistant it is to changing temperatures. Therefore, those in colder regions should use insulation with a higher R-value.

  • Wooden and uninsulated metal garage doors insulate poorly relative to modern steel garage doors. If you have either of those types, insulating them should be a top priority for home energy efficiency.
  • For wooden doors, rigid insulation panels work best, but you can use virtually any type of insulation for metal doors.
  • Detached, unheated garages will be fine with low R-value insulation anywhere between R-0 and R-6. As long as you don’t use the space for lounging, you don’t need to insulate it extremely well.
  • Attached, unheated garages need R-7 to R-9 insulation, since climate control in this space affects the home’s heating bill.
  • Use R-10 to R-13 for heated garages to prevent costly heat from escaping.
  • Any garage with living space above it should have R-14 insulation on the door.
  • Garage door insulation kits include pre-cut insulation and fasteners. Some also include gloves and utility knives.

How to insulate a garage door

Interior shot of two white garage doors
Konstantin L / Shutterstock

A clean, dry door surface is essential for adhesive fasteners to work properly. Wash the door, rinse it, and let it dry thoroughly for at least several hours before attempting to install insulation.

What you will need

  • Fiberglass batting garage door insulation kit (2 per 16-foot wide garage door), OR
  • Fire-rated polystyrene foam insulation panels
  • Replacement top and side seal weather stripping
  • Replacement bottom seal

Step 1: Measure and mark the door

Either two clips or two pins per panel holds the insulation in place. These fasteners mount to the door with adhesive backing or double-sided tape. On each door panel, measure and mark the locations for the two fasteners, one on each end, about 12 inches in from the ends and midway between the horizontal rails.

Step 2: Install retainer clips or retainer pins

For fasteners with adhesive backing, peel off the paper covering and press the base onto the marked locations on the garage door panels. For those using double-sided tape, first cut the tape to the proper length and press the tape onto the marked locations on the panel. Then remove the paper covering and press the fastener onto the tape.

Step 3: Cut the insulation panels to size

Protect yourself against skin and eye irritants. Wear gloves and safety glasses while handling insulation.

Measure each door panel individually, as they may not be the same size. Roll out batting insulation on a piece of scrap plywood with the vinyl side down. Measure and mark the cut lines according to the first door panel’s measurements, leaving one to two extra inches in length. Compress the insulation with a straight edge and cut it with a utility knife. 

Step 4: Hang the insulation on the garage door

Following the individual panel measurements, mount each insulation piece on the proper panel with the vinyl side facing outward. If the insulation has a reflective radiant barrier, that side should face outward.

For installation with retainer pins, line up the insulation so that it is centered between the side rails and runs end to end. Push it against the retaining pin until it punctures the vinyl. Then push the cap over the pin until it snaps into place.

For installation with retainer clips, line up the insulation as noted above. Push the insulation flat against the door and feel for the clips. Use the utility knife to slice small slits through the insulation for the clips to pass through. Attach the clip caps to the clip-backs to secure the insulation.

How much does it cost to insulate a garage door?

Garage and driveway with man shoveling snow
LesPalenik / Shutterstock

The cost to insulate a garage door typically ranges from $150 to $500, depending on factors such as door size, insulation type, and installation complexity. Materials like fiberglass or foam board may influence the price, as well as whether you choose DIY installation or hire a professional. Adding insulation can improve energy efficiency and reduce noise, but the final cost will vary based on your specific garage door type and insulation needs. For those seeking a simple upgrade, garage door insulation is often a budget-friendly, impactful improvement.

Insulating your garage door is a simple, effective way to improve comfort and reduce energy costs in your home. With the right insulation type and proper installation, you can keep the cold out and warmth in, creating a more efficient, comfortable garage space. Enjoy the added benefits of noise reduction and enhanced temperature control, making this home improvement project a valuable investment for any homeowner.

Mark Wolfe
Former Digital Trends Contributor
Mark Wolfe is a freelance writer who specializes in garden, landscaping, and home improvement. After two decades in the…
How to fix laminate countertops without calling a professional
You may not need to hire the pros to get your counters looking new
Modern kitchen with porcelain countertops

If your laminate countertops are stained, dated, cracked, or damaged, they can be an eyesore. If you want to give your kitchen or bathroom a quick DIY facelift, addressing a drab-looking countertop is a great first step. If you feel your countertop is salvageable with some DIY love, however, here's how to fix laminate countertops without calling a professional.

While some minor damage or basic refinishing can go a long way, there is a certain point where the damage should be addressed by a professional. If your countertop has major cracks or stains and damage covering a large portion of the surface, it may be a good idea to call in some help to repair or replace it entirely.
Removing stains

Read more
How to eliminate that musty ‘basement’ smell
Mold and mildew are big basement problems, but they can be solved
Finished basement with wood paneling

Do you avoid spending time in your basement because of its unpleasant odors? Whether it's finished or not, basements are typically cool, damp, and have little airflow going through them, which are all factors that contribute to its musty smell. Unfortunately, it takes more than general cleaning practices and air fresheners to rid the space of mustiness for good. Take a look at some of these tried-and-true methods for how to get rid of musty smell in basement spaces, so you can keep it smelling light, airy, and fresh.
1. Find the culprit of the musty smell

If you smell that common musty stench, the culprit is often mold or mildew. Since basements tend to be damp and have little airflow, they are common hot spots for mold and mildew growth. The first step in preventing further growth by sealing any leaky spots and inefficient drains.
Leaking windows and doors
Check your basement's exterior doors and windows for signs of moisture. Since leaks on the first floor can often drain into the basement, check the windows and doors on the main floor as well. If you find moisture around these entry points from rain or condensation, re-seal the area or call a professional to repair it.
Leaking pipes
Whether pipes are visible in your basement or not, you need to check them regularly for leaks. Examine any water and sewage pipes for signs of leaks and repair any cracks or poor seals. If plumber's tape or epoxy putty can't repair the leak, it's time to call a professional.
Dried-up drains
Basement floor drains direct water out of the home to keep the floors dry and prevent them from flooding. The stagnant water in this drain also traps bad odors emanating from the sewage system below. However, these drains can dry up from infrequent use, releasing stench into the air. If you notice smells arising near your floor drains, just pour a few cups of water into the drain to block the gases from escaping.
2. Clean up the basement

Read more
Sanded vs. unsanded grout: How to know which one to use
Make sure you use the right materials for your tile project
Hand applying grout to glass tile.

Choosing the right grout for your tiling project can significantly impact both the aesthetic and durability of your work. The debate of sanded vs. unsanded grout is a common one among DIY regrouting enthusiasts and professionals alike. That's why we are going to explore the differences between these two types of grout, discuss the best applications for each, and provide tips on care and cost considerations.
Sanded vs. unsanded grout: What's the difference?

Sanded grout is composed of a cement-based mix that includes sand particles. The addition of sand helps make the grout more durable and less prone to shrinking, since the sand particles in the grout provide additional strength, making it less likely to crack over time.

Read more